Monday, November 14, 2011

A Change of Scenery

This past week has been an incredible roller coaster ride of emotions and  experiences. The semester ended quite suddenly and all of the OMG crew suddenly found ourselves saying goodbye as we all disperse in different directions for the next little while. It wasn't until the few minutes after the last two people left the flat that it hit me hard that I would be on my own for the next 2 weeks exploring the country and for the first time traveling without friends.

I left Pune on a 15 hour bus ride to Nagpur. My first few days in Nagpur were really tough mentally. The city is much smaller than Pune, but I don't think many foreigners come here so I was the centre of a large amount of attention at any time I was walking down the street. The city is still quite developed but poverty is still very apparent especially in the old part of the city. It took me a few days to finally get used to being on my own again. Traveling solo can be an extremely rewarding experience, but the low days can be really difficult.

The reason for coming to Nagpur as I mentioned in a previous post was to volunteer with a local NGO here that sponsors roughly 800 children and provides diabetic care to children who otherwise could not afford it. I was working for a professor last year who sponsors one of the kids in the photos below. He is also conducting some important research on diabetes management in a resource poor context. Families of the children are being interviewed here and the hope is to use this research as a basis to understand if their management practices in a resource poor setting are making a positive impact in the health of children. If the results are positive, hopefully initiatives similar to this one can be developed in other areas of India and also in countries around the world. I am here to help with the collection of data and also to help with organizing a database for all the kids and sponsors. The NGO here is doing fantastic work and is very inspiring to see the difference they are making to the lives of many children.

I timed my visit here to ensure I was here for the day where the children that are sponsored come in for their insulin and to be interviewed by the staff here. I got to meet over 30 children and their families as well and to get some insight into the problems they are facing and how the NGO is helping. The first child that came in was having health problems because he wasn't taking his insulin regularly. The reason was not because of access but rather because if he takes it at school the boys tease him and basically don't invite him to eat lunch or play with them. It was really difficult to see because you could tell how the stigma of Diabetes was affecting this little boys life and his confidence.

Another boy came in, and I thought he was 8 or 9, but he was actually 20. Because of malnutrition and since he did not have access to insulin as a child, his growth was stunted and now he faces severe challenges in society with his appearance.
However, there were many kids that came in that were in extremely good health, and succeeding in school in large part because of their ability to get insulin for free at the clinic, and because they come in for check ups 4 times a year. The staff here really is amazing, not only are they providing the insulin, but they use these interview days to try and promote education for their children rather than keeping their daughters at home to clean and cook, because the parents will not always be there to support them. Also, having the parents all come in on the same day allows the staff to show parents that other children are succeeding, getting married, and living normal lives despite having T1D, and that their children can succeed as well.

Today is National Diabetes Day, and the NGO held an event for all families that are part of the program. I ended up being a special guest at the event alongside Andrea, an adventure cyclist from Switzerland who biked from Europe to India and is raising money for Diabetes. It was an incredible evening and getting to meet and play with a bunch of the kids was an unforgettable experience. Many of the children were extremely adorable, and I ended up practicing how to write our names in Marathi and English, which basically meant them laughing at my horrible attempts to write my name in Marathi.

On the weekend I flew to Delhi to write exams for the foreign service. Being in Delhi was almost like a dream. It was completely different than the cities I have visited over the last few months in the South, mostly because I had to stay in one of the nicer areas near the Embassies where my exam was held. Taking the metro and wandering the streets near Connaught place in New Delhi made me feel like I was in Europe rather than India. But every few minutes or so I would be brought back to reality with men asking to be my friend and in general trying to harass me in some way. Overall, even though it was a quick trip to Delhi, it was great to see new things and explore a different city and to get a taste for the North where I will be spending most of December traveling with Erin.

At the clinic
Andrea, Director of the NGO, Me

Teaching me Marathi



Rock stars!

Friday, November 4, 2011

Celebrating Diwali

Last week I was extremely fortunate to be able to take part in and experience Diwali. Diwali, also known as the festival of lights (you should be able to see why from the pictures) is the biggest Hindu festival of the year and something I was looking forward to since last winter when I decided to come here for the fall term. The festival did not disappoint! Here are some of my experiences during Diwali.

Lights & Explosives
- The city literally erupted in firecrackers for more or less 4 straight days, and when the sun went down it was a non stop show up until around 5am the next day! The city smelled like one big pile of gunpowder and was extremely hazy. 
- Almost every house was beautifully decorated with lights and some with bright lanterns and Rangoli art at their doorsteps. We were lucky enough to have Nilo come and design Rangoli on our front door.

Family
- Unlike many of the other festivals that I've seen so far which were centered around loud music and dancing in the street with huge stages and strobe lights, Diwali was really nice because every night we would walk down some of the side streets near our flat and see families hanging out around and coming to greet us in the street and shake our hand to say Happy Diwali. 
- A couple of friends that I have met since being here brought over some sweets (Indian candies) as a gift for Diwali which is tradition when visiting someone's house.
- Walking at night and just watching families designing Rangoli or sitting in front of their front door chatting and spending time together was something I looked forward to every night

Energy & Atmosphere
- Walking down the street you could feel like excitement, especially with the kids who were in absolute heaven. What kind of kid wouldn't love a festival centered around sweets and blowing things up? 
- We went to buy the ridiculous amount of firecrackers with Amman and his cousin. It was really great to see how excited they were and kept asking us excessively "You come tonight to get us right? We must light the cracker together!" It was adorable!

Danger
- Total number of bikes/cars almost destroyed = 2, total number of houses almost blown up = 1. Each time the "rocket bomb" was the culprit. The first time the rocket ignited uncontrollably into the street there were two motorbikes waiting, and it exploded right in front of them, they seemed surprisingly calm despite the fact that it came so close.
- A few days before Diwali, people were already lighting off crackers in the streets, so myself and another Canadian went out join. The first cracker we lit up literally exploded in his hands, it was a huge explosion. Looking back I'm not sure how he wasn't hurt more than a few cuts on his hands. I couldn't hear anything for 10-15 minutes and I had a huge light in my eye for a while as well. I would like to know how many people visit the hospital every Diwali because of firecracker related injuries!

Shopping for lights in Pune

Nilo designing doing Rangoli in front of our door

Rangoli

Gokhale Nagar street behind our flat

Arsenal of fire crackers


The Diwali Crew

Lighting a firecracker on the side of Pashan Road

Group photo (notice massive cloud of smoke behind us!)